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With the stretch of warm weather we had in early November, it was hard to tell that it was Fall. There was, however, one telltale sign: the very familiar glossy photos of perfectly roasted turkeys on the cover of just about every single cooking, housekeeping, and DIY magazine. I don't know why, but this surprises me every year. What's with the big bird? Isn't it getting a little old? I do not roast, grill or fry a turkey as the centerpiece of Thanksgiving dinner. I will attempt to encourage you to follow suit.
Think about the first Thanksgiving - or at least think about what our grade school teachers told us. It's easy to imagine that wild turkeys ran amuck during those days when Europeans first settled on American soil. I know they ran through my back yard (turkeys, not Europeans) when I was a kid growing up in Pennsylvania, so it makes sense that turkey might have been our forefathers' first choice when deciding what to bring to that legendary potluck. Isn't just as likely, however, that other wild game were just as readily available and therefore made an appearance on the same table? Today, I'm lucky to live in a part of Oakland where I chance upon a wild turkey every now and then, but come on... I can name a dozen local farms that specialize in pasture-raised animals of all kinds and suitable to many different preparations.*
What do I make for Thanksgiving dinner? Over the last few years I've made short ribs braised in porter ale, braised whole chickens with a ham-currant-pine nut stuffing, and braised pork shoulder with apricots and cardamom. All of the meat came from pasture-raised animals from local farms. Though I know the majority of you would kill to be in my kitchen, forks in hand, when I take the lid off the braising pot, you're still wondering "What's the point of Thanksgiving without a turkey?" If the centerpiece for your holiday meal is going to be a Butterball, your nagging will fall on my deaf ears. Of course you could get a pasture-raised turkey and roast it. By all means go for it, but consider this - you could make something else as equally wonderful AND be able to spend less than 30 minutes in the kitchen on Thanksgiving day.
Try this tactic for the upcoming "turkey day." Go buy a copy of Molly Stevens' All About Braising. You'll be so glad you did - even long after the holidays have passed. Find a recipe or two that appeals to you. Let's consider, as an example, you choose the Zinfandel Pot Roast with Glazed Carrots and Sage, and the Creamy Braised Brussels Sprouts. (Yes! There are recipes for many wonderful vegetable side dishes, too.) These, like so many other braised dishes, are even better made a day or two in advance, so... Come Thanksgiving day, all you have to do is take dinner out of the refrigerator and gently reheat it while you put together a salad. Guests can bring the hors d'oeuvres, rolls, and pies. Twenty minutes before you sit down to eat, let your friends and relatives hang out in the kitchen as you glaze the carrots and reduce the sauce for the pot roast, and they'll think you slaved all day over the stove. This should get you several offers to do the dishes at meal's end. Buon appetito!
*Though you can find pasture-raised meat at many local stores, check out Prather Ranch, Marin Sun, and Highland Hills Farm. They're all local and sell only pasture-raised animals.
If the dealing with a large hunk of meat sounds daunting, I highly suggest you check out the brand new The Local Butcher Shop in Berkeley. If you ask nicely, this local butcher can do a bit of prep work for you.
